I have always wanted to like the painting aspect of my hobby. There is nothing that makes my hobby heart flutter more, than seeing a fully and beautifully painted army on the tabletop. But, my own skills have always been hampered by impatience and lack of practice. That said, as I have grown up, and had more patience and determination to progress my talents with a paint brush, I have finally started to make considerable steps forward in slapping some paint on some plastic.
I guess, part of the problem has been self-perpetuated by my constant purchasing of new models, meaning that the pile of unpainted models has forever grown. I decided a few months ago that there was one simple solution to efficiently reducing this mountain of plasticrack; to develop a speed-painting technique.
Below is the pictorial proof and method of how I have developed one (of many) speed painting techniques, specifically for the diseased disciples of Nurgle. Now, these guys literally took 5 minutes each, from start to finish, and a further two minutes to base (obviously, that was post this picture being taken!)...
I started off by solidly undercoating the models in white. I tried doing this with a brush at first, but actually found that a can of white undercoat gave a thinner and more solid coat.
Once these had dried, I then applied a liberal wash of Reikland Fleshshade (Ogryn Flesh).
Then, I applied Biel-Tan Green (Thraka Green) wash, but only is certain areas, and only 5 or 6 patches on the whole model, giving the skin a mottled appearance. Really try not to go overboard with this, and each patch should be really quite weak. Water the Shade down if needed.
Next, I used Seraphim Sepia (Gryphonne Sepia), and just gave a medium wash to the model, focusing on the grooves and recesses, but leaving the majority of the model untouched.
Now, the sores, open wounds and entrails were the fun part. I would highly recommend buying some Tamiya Clear Red, as it is truly a God send for gore and gruesomeness. I carefully, but liberally applied this to all sores and wounds. With one coat it looks like it is a little bloody and sore, but if you apply a second, it looks wet, bloody and gruesome. The key to this stuff, is waiting until each coat is dry, as it is tacky and viscous, and can really make a mess of models if you are impatient.
Lastly, I painted the sword jet black. Try to get a thin, but solid coat, so that the sword keeps it's edges and detail, but is a consistent colour all over. Shades and highlights aren't necessary, as I then applied a gloss varnish to the sword, to give it the Obsidian finish I was looking for.
Base as appropriate...
JJ
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